Homer'sWorld

We stopped first at a small outdoor antique kiosk. Nothing I wanted. A very long walk took place to the Borghese Gardens. We could not get inside the museum, it was closed. Then we started walking some more, Matt found directions to another antique store. 

My feet were hurting so bad. I have plantar fasciatis in the heel of my right foot. Finally I asked, how much longer? It was either 20 or 40 minutes. A minor temper tantrum. We had a discussion. Matt likes to walk a lot. Me, not so much. So we cut short that walk and started back.

And then we came across the Trajan Market Museum and I insisted we go inside. Lots of sculptures and ruins, somewhat a maze to get to where you wanted to go. Matt really enjoyed seeing this.

Afterward we walked back to the apartment. 12.5 miles.

We walked towards the Capitoline Museum. A church was open on the way and we stopped to go inside. There are churches everywhere in Rome and the ones we went inside were beautifully decorated.

The Capitoline is up a steep hill! The museum is filled with famous statues and mosaics and was not particularly crowded, so you could enjoy looking at things.  

Sandwiches at the cafeteria (mine was a disgusting eggplant one). We went outside onto a terrace afterward and looking down Matt spotted archaeologists at work. I was jealous.

Then a hurried walk to the Colloseum, where Matt had bought a tour package (well worth it). We walked through this enormous building and I learned how nasty Roman parents took their children to watch public executions as an educational activity.

The took went to the top of Palatine Hill through the remnants of Domitian's palace, then down into the Forum, where we saw a number of buildings.

We walked back and ate supper very close to the apartment. 9 miles

We walked to the train station and found it very confusing. We ended up waiting a couple of hours before catching the high-speed train (185 mph) to Naples. Then a taxi ride to the street where we walked to meet Genero, who let us into the next Airbnb.

That night pizza at a famous pizza place, where both locals and tourists eat. It was the best pizza of the trip. Afterward we walking along the sea shore. People were having a nice time strolling and stopping at the sidewalk cafes.

60th birthday. We took the subway to the train station and the train station to Pompeii. There a taxi deliberately dropped us off at the wrong place and we missed the expensive tour that Matt had paid for. He was very angry.

We then headed into the city with a paper map. At the theater a woman tried to pickpocket Matt, who smashed her hand with his camera. I proceeded to play tour guide, based on the things I knew about the site from being obsessed every since I was a kid. We headed up the streets, often avoiding the crowds, stopping to go inside houses that were open. Beautiful frescoes and mosaics. Not many small things, the houses have been stripped of their furnishings which are in museums. 

I got to see a lot more of Pompeii than I would have with a tour. We ended at the House of Mysteries.

Then a fast standing-room-only train back to Naples.

We then went to the Naples Archaeological Museum. It is filled with the treasures from Pompeii, Herculaneum, neighboring towns. Again, so much but not crowded. The Villa of the Papyri room was closed, unfortunately.

Supper was a mistake- a horrible fettucine dish with a surly old lady waitress. But the birthday pastry was delicious.

Subway to train station, and then to Herculaneum. It is obvious that there is less money being spent at this site. One house in particular- the graffiti was horrible, people scratching their names on 2000-year-old frescoes. Still remarkable to see things there.

Only a small portion of the site has been excavated- it is buried up to 80 feet in ash that has turned into tufa, a type of stone. And then the modern town is built on top. You can see places at the edges with walls sticking out and tunnels from the old days. If only I was a billionaire...

We then took the train back to Naples and then another train back to Rome, where we walked to the third Airbnb, this one on the fourth floor.

After a nap we got ready for dinner and Matt said, "Put on a nice shirt," and I did. We walked down a street towards a spot where you could see Corinthian columns from Roman days that had been re-used for a Church, and then Matt got down on his knee and proposed. I cried a little (he expected more). It was a huge surprise.

Many of the rooms were the former living places of Popes and were elaborately decorated.

We took the subway back. After a nap we wandered into another church and then had a last meal at a touristy restaurant. 

The next morning we were up at 2 AM, the taxi arrived at 3 AM and whisked up to the airport.

I gave it to Sandy, who experienced worse symptoms. Somehow Matt escaped catching it. On one of the flights I took off my mask for a while. Or at the Chicago airport, packed with people. Who knows. I'm waiting for the tests to stop being positive.